Themed Restaurant: NINJA AKASAKA

Themed restaurants have been popular in Japan over the past several years, ranging from the tame, like the eat-what-you-catch Zauo fishing-themed restaurant, to the weird, like Alice's Fantasy Restaurant (as in Alice in Wonderland), to the downright disturbing, like Alcatraz E.R. medical prison restaurant (seriously, you couldn't pay me to eat there). Amidst the crowd of all these themed restaurants, though, one seems to stand out: Ninja Akasaka. Perhaps it is because Ninja Akasaka is one of the oldest of these types of establishments, having celebrated its tenth year, or perhaps it is due to its notoriety, having been featured on countless websites, TV shows, and magazines. Whatever the reason, Ninja Akasaka should be on any visitor's short-list of must-visit places in Tokyo.

As one would expect, Ninja Akasaka is concealed in the somewhat flashy Akasaka district of Tokyo. The only thing giving it away is a stylish glowing sign along a wall of black, and a dimly lit, recessed doorway.

Once inside, you are greeted by a host or hostess, dressed up in ninja attire, who calls upon another ninja to guide you through your "training" to your table. Be warned that the trek, while fun and generally safe, does run through steep stairs, low ceilings (I've hit my head on two of my four visits), and very low lighting. The elderly or disabled may have to be escorted through the back entrance.

Salmon tartare puff pastry

Each party is assigned a room with a name (ours this past trip, was "shoujo"), which you'll need to remember if you go to the bathroom. Why? Because it's dark and a bit confusing (it wouldn't be a ninja lair if it weren't!), that most will likely need to ask someone for help back.

At your table, which usually looks like the inside of a cave and is filled with the sounds of the flowing water and waterfalls that course throughout the entire restaurant, your server will present you with a ninja scroll that is your menu. You can order from a set course menu that ranges from ¥5,000 to ¥20,000 ($50-200) or from an ala carte menu. We've always gone with the ala carte menu to maximize the amounts of dishes we can try and to cut down on the cost of the bill, but still expect to spend at least $35-40 per person.

Shredded vegetable salad , NINJA style

Many dishes are ninja-themed, with tricks to them, such as the salad pictured above, which initially looks like a pastry, but breaks open to reveal the salad inside, with the outer crust becoming the croutons and the whipped topping the dressing. The portions are small, but most everything we've tried has been fantastic. Our favorites are the niku-jaga (meat and potato soup) and the salmon tartare puff pastry (pictured at the top).

While you're eating, another ninja will come to your table and perform a brief magic show that usually features close-up table magic, such as card tricks and other sleights of hand using money. From my experience, you'll either have a great magician who occasionally makes a joke or two or a hilarious ninja who can perform a few cool tricks. Either way, you're sure to have a ton of fun.

Merchant and corrupt official (Vanilla ice cream and dacquoise)

Once you're done with your meal and your show, your ninja server will escort you through the back exit and you can take a picture with him or her to commemorate your dining experience.

Reservations are required and can be made here: Ninja Akasaka. Early reservations are available for families with children.

English-speaking staff (and magician) and English menus are available.

Access via Akasaka-Mitsuke (赤坂見附) station on the Tokyo Metro Marunouchi (M-13) or Ginza (G-05) lines.

Take Exit 8; approximately 3 minute walk from the station.